In this text I explain the differences between two common cosmetic grade acid types, and which one to use depending on skin concern.
Most of us beauty connoisseurs know that one of the quickest ways to a radiant, smooth skin is spelled A C I D.
While some should not be used without an appropriate amount of planning and preparation (like getting a TCA medical grade peeling from your dermatologist) others can be used with less caution. The later doesn’t mean that they can be used excessively without consequences, or that they can’t harm your skin. It does mean however, that they are sold over the counter and manufactured as safe skin care in any drug store or even grocery store nowadays. Not to mention as promising ingredients in our beloved world of cosmetic skin care in all price ranges; AHA acid, and Salicylic Acid (a form of BHA acid). These acids are relatively safe to use, meaning they won’t risk to cause a huge damage to your skin. However, using them wrong, and overuse of them, causes an irritated, unhappy skin with a damaged barrier. Using them right, over time, can make small wonders for your skin. So let’s learn all about them.
AHA:
Alpha Hydroxy Acid, is an acid that occurs naturally, and originally was derived from sugar cane. Today, its mostly produced with acids from a synthesized labratory production. Various forms of AHA include Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Mandelic Acid.
AHA acids, in its various forms, is shown to exfoliate the skin, and increase the shedding of dead surface skin cells. Glycolic Acids, is the AHA with smallest molecules. This means that it can go the deepest in the skin (of all the AHA), and therefore be the most effective one. AHA acids are water soluble, but not oil soluble. Simplified, the AHA acids can’t solve oil, such as build up sebum; the oil substance our skin naturally produces.
AHA acids are shown to stimulate collagen production, and by working on the surface layer of our skin, this acid, when used over time, can help fade hyperpigmentation, as well as restore moisture and plumpness.
Alpa Hydroxy Acid chain
BHA:
Beta Hydroxy Acid, as well occurs naturally in the nature, but mostly lab made these days. The most common form of BHA is Salisylic Acid; SA.
BHA’s are oil soulable, meaning that, contrary they can solve oil, which make them, and hat they can be used for, a lot different then the AHA’s. The Salisylic Acid particularly, is an oil loving acid. This means that the SA will be attracted to the oilier parts of the skin, going down to the pores and work on buildups to prevent clogged pores, blackheads and acne.
The BHA acids works to not only clear pores and keep our oil levels (sebum) in order, they can also help minimize the appearance of pores. Due to these factors, BHA have anti inflammatory and anti bacterial properties.
Beta Hydroxy Acid chain
So, which acid will work best for you?
The good news is that if you have a normal, combination or oily skin type, these acids can be used simultaneously, if you’re cycling your skin care routine.
An AHA will work on the surface of your skin, and is great to use in the form of a chemical peel mask, or in a toner, or even a moisturizer. This will help you get rid of excess dead skin cells, work on your complexion and moisture levels. Exfoliating your skin from already dead cells will help your skin to absorb more of the nurturing and hydrating ingredients of the other skin care you applying. AHA is therefore a good acid to use for a young face, as well as a more mature skin, suffering from dryness and in need of plumpness and glow.
A BHA acid, commonly the SA, on the other hand, will not be suitable for a dry skin, or a mature skin needing of hydration. We do not need to remove oils from a skin that is balanced, and overuse of any BHA in this case, can lead to an unwanted overproduction of sebum. A BHA is therefore best to use for a skin, that is too oily, or have skin concerns such as acne, excessive oil, clogged and enlarged pores. Using for instance a SA cleanser or toner, can help clear those oil levels and pores, for a finer, clear skin, with decreased breakouts and excessive oil.
So, to summarize, for a dewy, healthy hydrated and clear skin. If you have dryness, a mature skin, use only the AHA acids. If you have excessive oil, breakouts, or enlarged pores, use BHA acids. If your skin is a combination, use both, and don’t forget to hydrate and nurture your skin as a part of your routine.